Street food made in Florence

Street food made in Florence
Articles
04March2014
Alessandra Lucarelli ph Dario Garofalo

A guide to take-away shops

Want to eat sandwich on the fly, while you’re walking the streets of Florence? Great idea, as long as it’s good quality. There are tons of places throughout the city where you can find hand-picked local products, with a good price/quality ratio and that dose of Florentine flavour that, let’s be honest, always puts you in a good mood. We have chosen the ton ten that you absolutely cannot miss. Let’s start from the city centre. Just steps away from the Palazzo Vecchio and the Uffizi Gallery you’ll find Alessandro Frassica’s gourmet shop Ino, a tiny refuge featuring rare local, national and foreign specialties.

Need a recommendation? Sandwiches and schiacciata (flat bread) stuffed with salame rosa (pink Bolognese salami) and zucchini-saffron pesto; Taleggio cheese and finocchiona (fennel salami); gorgonzola and fig preserve; and aged pecorino and paprika (Via de’ Georgofili 3). If you run into a long line on Via de’ Neri, it means you’ve come across Antico Vinaio. Here you need to order the schiacciata with pecorino or artichoke spread and sbriciolona (crumbly fennel salami) from Montespertoli, or a plate of mixed crostini (toasted bread with different toppings), accompanied by a lovely glass of wine – red, of course.

The best place to stop along the prestigious Via de’ Tornabuoni is Procacci, a historic delicatessen founded in 1885 whose truffle-based specialties are a veritable Florentine institution. Bought by the Marchesi Antinori in 1998, the shop is filled with the unmistakable scent of truffle, and the walnut shelving and Art Nouveau marble counter have remained unchanged. Another historic place is located in Piazza dell’Olio, right behind Piazza Duomo.

The wine bar in Fiaschetteria Nuvoli is 211 years old, while the shop itself has belonged to the Nuvoli family for 27 years. Three passions are celebrated here: the Fiorentina football team, photography – part of the family’s history, reflected in the beautiful images on the wall – and Tuscan cooking. Here you’ll find sandwiches with only the best traditional cold cuts, cheeses, polenta and oil-pickled vegetables. Turn the corner of Via de’ Calzaioli and you’ll find Armando and Michele’s I Fratellini. Order a warm sandwich with crusty bread, stuffed with prosciutto or finocchiona and goat cheese, and pair it with a good glass of red wine, all for the modest price of 4 euro.

Founded in 1875, the place is as local and traditional as can be. On Via del Parione the place to be is Mariano. In addition to the classics, let Mariano himself recommend sandwiches with tongue, chicory and mustard; prosciutto di Praga, gorgonzola and olives from the Ligurian Riviera; chicken galantine and baby artichokes from Capello; or salmon, cream cheese and rocket. Near the San Lorenzo Market, on Via dell’Ariento, stop in at Gianni Migliorini’s Casa del Vino, which was founded by his grandfather in the early twentieth century. Here you have to try Migliorini’s sandwiches with cold cuts from Chianti, green sauce, minced offal, nerves, muscle and tongue, and salt and pepper. In the neighbourhood and hankering for some tripe? At Nerbone Fabio Gialli serves up some of the most famous tripe in the city and his shop, located inside the Central Market of San Lorenzo, is listed in all the guidebooks. In addition to the tripe and the lampredotto (cow stomach), try the boiled meat dressed with new-harvest olive oil and a creamy, flavourful green sauce.

The Marchetti family’s L’Antico Trippaio is a tradition passed down for five generations – almost a century of history. Here you can taste some of the best lampredotto, tripe salad, schiacciata with boiled meat exclusively from Italy, cold cuts from San Savino and fresh bread every day. Finally, on Borgo San Jacopo 19r you’ll find Ringo, a small shop where the glamour of the ‘70s survives. Try one of the various versions of the shop’s cult dish, a hamburger, accompanied by a glass of champagne. Yes, you read that right. Veuve Cliquot, to be precise.

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