The First Conclave in History Took Place in Tuscany
When Arezzo Made Papal History!
No one knows it, but Tuscany was the stage for the first modern conclave in the history of the Church. Here's how it all went down…
Forget Rome. Forget the Sistine Chapel. The real story of the conclave – the one with cardinals locked inside, no contact with the outside world, rations reduced to the bare minimum (literally), and a secret vote straight out of a history book – started in Tuscany, in a place you probably wouldn't expect: Arezzo. Yes, that Arezzo, with its medieval jousts, steaming bowls of pappa al pomodoro, and postcard-perfect sunsets.
joust of the saracino in the piazza grandeIt was January 21, 1276, and in a stone church nestled among the city's rooftops, San Domenico, 13 cardinals gathered to choose a new Pope. The frontrunner? A certain Pierre de Tarentaise, bishop of Ostia, who would become Innocent V. But this wasn’t just any election – it was the first conclave in history, at least as we know it today.
Church of San Domenico ArezzoTHE ORIGINS OF THIS STORY
Let’s rewind for a second: before Arezzo, papal elections were... let’s say, a bit chaotic. In the early centuries, it only took a few strong-minded Romans or a dying Pope naming his bestie as successor. Then came the cardinals, the aristocratic families (read: Game of Thrones-level feuds), and... the disaster in Viterbo.
In 1268, after the death of Pope Clement IV, it took 1,006 days (yes, nearly three years!) to elect a new Pope. The cardinals? Locked inside the papal palace while the citizens of Viterbo – understandably fed up – literally locked the doors, removed the roof, and fed them only bread and water. Talk about tough love.
The “lucky” winner of that papal endurance contest was Gregory X, who, with the wisdom of someone who had seen it all, decided it was time for change. During the Council of Lyon in 1274, he pulled out the “Ubi periculum” Constitution: a strict set of rules for future elections. Locked in, no outside contact, progressively sadder meals. It was the dawn of the modern conclave.
GREGORY X
But Gregory X was old and not in great health. He left Lyon in 1275, but the road to Rome was long and full of fevers. He stopped in Arezzo, welcomed by the local bishop (and de facto ruler) Guglielmino degli Ubertini. Sadly, on January 10, 1276, Gregory died. But according to his own constitution, nine days later, a new Pope had to be elected in the same place where the last had died.
And so here we are: Arezzo becomes, by law and by chance, the stage of the very first conclave in history, following the freshly minted rules from Lyon. A total of 13 out of 16 cardinals participated, shut away in strict seclusion, between prayers, ballots, and some probably growling stomachs. And there, within the stone walls of San Domenico, Innocent Vwas born.
AREZZO’S HISTORIC FIRST
Arezzo isn’t just a perfect stop for those seeking authentic Italy—it’s also one of the few cities in the world that houses the remains of a Pope. Gregory X is buried in the city’s cathedral, a token of gratitude from a town that gave him refuge in his final days—and built the Duomo thanks in part to his generous donation.
Few remember today that papal elections haven’t always happened in Rome. They took place in Viterbo, Perugia, Lyon, Venice, even Constance—but it was in Arezzo that the conclave placed its very first official seal.
Church of San Domenico ArezzoTIPS FOR CURIOUS TRAVELERS
If you're in Arezzo, swing by San Domenico Church—maybe after a coffee in Piazza Grande—and imagine 13 red-robed cardinals locked inside in January 1276, about to change the course of history.
Then head up to the Duomo, pay your respects to Gregory X (who was beatified in 1713, not too shabby), and maybe get lost among the stalls of the monthly antiques fair or soak up the cinematic vibes of Life is Beautiful, which was filmed right here. Because yes—Arezzo knows how to surprise you.
THE FILM FOR THE TIMES.... WITH A TUSCAN TTWIST
In a moment when the topic of conclaves is once again making headlines, there’s one film that feels perfectly timed: “Conclave” by Robert Harris, based on his bestselling novel and directed by Edward Berger. The all-star cast includes Ralph Fiennes, Stanley Tucci, Isabella Rossellini, and Sergio Castellitto, in a gripping story set behind the closed doors of the Vatican. And guess what? Tuscany makes an appearance here too—in its own stylish way.
The stunning jewelry and accessories worn by the actors—cardinal rings, ornate crosses, and dazzling papal bling—were handcrafted by Paolo Penko, a master goldsmith from Florence known for turning Renaissance craftsmanship into wearable art. It’s the kind of detail that makes the viewing experience even richer for lovers of history, Italy, and timeless elegance.
Le creazioni di Paolo Penko in Conclave (ph. Edoardo Argenio)
The film is now streaming on Amazon Prime, so if this article sparked your curiosity about the very first conclave in Arezzo... you know exactly what to watch tonight.