Panettone: a dessert for all seasons

A 'provocation' by Davide Paolini gave rise to a custom that is now also a fashion for Ferragosto

It was around a century ago that Angelo Motta first promoted panettone as a Christmas treat – a deliberate marketing strategy, even then. And so it remained for nearly a hundred years. But in 2010, food journalist Davide Paolini – then widely known as the “Gastronaut” – invited master pastry chefs and artisan producers to make panettone a year-round delight. “A whim of mine? A desecration of tradition?” Paolini recalls. “That’s how my idea to launch summer panettone was received at the time. And yet that little ‘push’ sparked a wave of events and initiatives, some more original than others.”

So – panettone in August? Why not! Whether under a beach umbrella, in a picnic hamper, or on a beautifully laid terrace or garden table, the iconic Italian sweet has begun appearing ever more frequently outside its festive season. No longer reserved for Christmas, it’s now associated with the summer’s own New Year celebration: Ferragosto. And for several years now, this tradition has been renewed on the ‘noble sands’ of Forte dei Marmi, thanks to Gabriele Filippini, owner of Fiore 1827 – the historic Sienese confectionery brand soon to celebrate its 200th anniversary – who has curated delicious encounters with Paolini himself. Last summer saw the debut of a summery twist on the classic: panettone filled with peach and apricot. “I was delighted,” said Paolini, “to accept Gabriele Filippini’s invitation to present the ‘tearing’ of a 3-kilo version of this artisanal Made in Italy icon.”

Because in summertime, panettone should never be sliced with a knife. The rules are different: it must be torn by hand, with no concern for etiquette. This cheerful reversal of tradition – which once insisted on refined servings with spoon and cake fork – now becomes a playful, social gesture. Tearing off a warm, fragrant piece by hand is not only satisfying but creates a sense of shared joy, transforming panettone into a symbol of appetite and conviviality. And looking ahead to Ferragosto 2025, the Municipality of Forte dei Marmi has announced that following its much-loved sunrise concert on the pier – as the sun rises behind the Apuan Alps – guests will be offered Fiore 1827’s Summer Panettone, served alongside a light breakfast prepared by the Pontile Fishermen’s Association.