Connect with Firenze Made in Tuscany

Sign up our newsletter

Get more inspiration, tips and exclusive itineraries in Florence

mangiare apuane ristoranti toscana versilia

Teresa Favi

July 24, 2020

Eating climbing in the Apuan Alps

The 10 best trattorias above Versilia, between the Apuan Alps and Lunigiana

If you are in Versilia you will know that turning your back to the sea and heading into the interior of the Apuan Alps and Lunigiana can give you breathtaking views, fresh, nature but also incredible taste experiences in the shade villages, ancient churches, woods and mountain huts. To take you to the hinterland of Versilia to discover this paradise among high mountain peaks we decided to take you by the throat giving you a targeted selection of inns, trattorias, restaurants and refuges.

Locanda Apuana

Locanda Apuana, Colonnata

In the homeland of pork fat, stop at this authentic tavern on the outskirts of the village run by the Guadagni family, producer of the best lard in Colonnata.  Here you can cook on land heavily contaminated with that of nearby Liguria and you are sure to find lard in all the rooms. Try the tagliatelle bastarde pasta mixed with chestnut flour and seasoned with gorgonzola, Zeri lamb (Slow Food Presidium), finished with a selection of pecorino cheese and rice and cream pie. On the wines you will find the best of the local varieties from Colli di Luni to Candia. Via Comunale 1, Colonnata MS tel. 0585 768017


Venanzio, Colonnata

All-marble restaurant with a small terrace overlooking the main square of the village. It's a classic. Starting with lard is almost a must. Then if you want to taste a typical dish of the area try the tagliolini with beans otherwise throw yourself on homemade meat ravioli seasoned with a light tomato sauce. There is a delicate roast beef accompanied by an original soy sauce and an incredible local cheese cart. Piazza Palestro 3, Colonnata MS tel. 0585 758033

Lina verticale

Lina, Bagnone

We are in the middle of Lunigiana between castles, woods and watchtowers. The restaurant is on the first floor of an ancient building is suggestive. The kitchen is a pearl of authenticity.  It starts with local cold cuts and typical herb cakes, potatoes and onions. Testaroli al pesto (made with water, salt and wheat flour) and excellent ravioli among the first in season are the tagliolini with mushrooms. The second courses of meat are the cima alla genovese, the roast lamb, the local rabbit in porchetta. Homemade desserts and local wines crown an unforgettable enogastronomic experience. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 1, Bagnone MS tel. 0187 429069



Bussé, Pontremoli

This restaurant is located in the historic center in the alley next to the Duomo an institution since 1930. A place where food and tradition combine in a mix of flavors that are the meeting point of three neighboring regions: Tuscany Liguria and Emilia Romagna. Testaroli and torta d'erbi are a must. Among the seconds deserves the rabbit stew. It closes with pecorino cheese and Spongata pontremolese made with pastra frolla, dried fruit and honey. Piazza del Duomo 31, Pontremoli MS tel. 340 7465839


Trattoria Norina

Trattoria Norina, Pontremoli

A dip into the local culinary tradition. A more cheerful place that fané where to get there you have to pass under a tunnel between the buildings of the main street (which in this section coincides with the Francigena) and emerge in a view of the river Magra. The appetizer is herb cakes, cold cuts and chestnut flour pancakes served with shepherd's ricotta cheese. Then you go to testaroli with pesto for second fried lamb (the lamb is from Zeri) and close with a cup of fresh mountain blueberries. Via del Gaggio 24, Podenzana MS te. 0187 410021

Gavarina d’Oro

Gavarina d'Oro, Podenzana

On the border with Liguria we are in the capital of Panigaccio, focaccia baked on the earthenware texts to eat stuffed with salami and cheese. Here is excellent grilled meat and the first courses of homemade pasta as are desserts. Its quality and the low price of the final bill fills the place with people and makes it a pretty crowded place. But if you are prepared you can get over it. Via del Gaggio 24, Podenzana MS te. 0187 410021

Antico Uliveto

 Antico Uliveto, Seravezza

A beautiful location within a centuries-old olive grove. The cuisine follows the seasons with menus that offer Tuscan dishes reinvented with originality: spelt Versilian style, wild boar stew with polenta di Maranino, chocolate cream cake and pears. Rich selection of Italian and foreign oils and wines. In summer it is open only in the evening from Monday to Friday. Via Martiri di Sant’Anna 76, Pozzi di Seravezza LU tel. 0584 768882 382 5777902

La Ceragetta

 La Ceragetta, Capanne di Careggine

At the foot of the Apuan Alps, the restaurant is part of a Resort with vegetable, fruit and animal breeding. It offers a substantial and homemade menu and a family service. Typical of the cuisine are the savoury pies: of herbs, potatoes and rice. Don't miss the tordelli with meat sauce but also cacio e pepe rice, pappardelle with meat and mushroom sauce, lasagne with artichokes and truffle, fried lamb, pork loin in Orloff sauce. Close in beauty by giving yourself sweet cakes of figs and walnuts or the buccellato at the end. Località Capanne di Careggine LU tel. 0583 667004


rifugio alpino forte dei marmi

Rifugio alpino Forte dei Marmi, Alpi Apuane

In the heart of the Apuan Alps you will find this lovely refuge far from the noise of the city and sea life. It can be reached from Stazzema by following the path n. 5 with about 1 hour of walk so you need sportswear and sneakers. The refuge is surrounded by nature and there is a panorama that makes it magical. Excellent are the tagliatelle with roe deer meat sauce and the mountain herb roast beef with potatoes. The desserts are of great level starting from the tarts. Good assortment of craft beers. Open every day from 15th June to 15th September. Località Alpe della Grotta, Stazzema LU tel. 331 3277741


locanda il poveromo

Locanda Il Poveromo, Pruno di Stazzema

An hour's walk from this village nestled in the Apuan Alps are the suggestive Cascate dell'Acqua Pendente waterfalls and Pruno is also the best point to see the summer solstice in Monte Forato, on June 21, when the hole in the mountain is pierced by the rays of the sun. Solstice or not, stop at the Poveromo: tordelli, fried quarters (fried bread dough) with Mortadella di Cardoso, polenta made of yellow flour or chestnuts seasoned with fresh mushroom sauce (in season and, if it rains, also in August), finish with castagnaccio or necci (chestnut flour fritters) with ricotta cheese. Pruno di Stazzema LU tel. 0584 777021, 393 9796895 

Other addresses:

Michelangelo Restaurant, Azzano Seravezza LU tel. 0584 773050, 0584 773312 and 3314138364

 Sotto la Loggia, Pomezzana Stazzema LU tel. 0584 777839


Connect with Firenze Made in Tuscany