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Mangiare in Maremma

Teresa Favi

July 29, 2020

Eating in the villages of Maremma

Authentic local dishes, breathtaking views, villages that look like cribs

A land of butteri, uncontaminated beaches, vineyards, olive groves and villages perched on tuff mountains, the Tuscan Maremma has a country chic coté to discover.
Between the Gulf of Follonica and the promontory of Argentario, today it is the perfect place for refined visitors who are slow to discover its treasures: wine cellars, charming hotels, farms and small restaurants for connoisseurs between the countryside and the sea, where you can take a break and spend a magical evening in the cool air. These are the best in our opinion.

Al Convento, Scarlino

Al Convento, Scarlino
A place of great charm, the scenery is undoubtedly worth the view from the large terrace overlooking the village with an unforgettable view of the Tuscan archipelago. The menu follows the seasons, firmly anchored to the tradition of game, Maremma ox steaks and the local coastal area's catch. It is the same Chef who every day searches for and chooses the best ingredients for his dishes. His researches push him to the port of Castiglione della Pescaia as well as to the countryside of Punta Ala.
La tana dei brilli, Massa Marittima
It is the smallest tavern in Italy (10/12 seats inside and a small space outside, in summer) run by Raffaella Cecchelli. A place with a familiar and romantic atmosphere. It offers a rich menu with dishes of Maremma cuisine accompanied by excellent Tuscan wines: some examples are: wild boar loin with fresh burrata, chestnut necci with wild boar ragout, Maremma style wild boar steaks and delicious homemade desserts.
La Luna, Tirli
In Tirli, a small Etruscan village perched above Castiglione della Pescaia, you must stop at the inn/restaurant La Luna, which inspired the name of the boat Luna Rossa. Emilio Signori, an experienced chef, and his wife Tiziana, in 1997 decided to start a restaurant and then, over the years, to turn it into an inn. The restaurant was immediately a great success and Emilio's fame grew more and more. The Osteria offers typical Maremma dishes to which is added, with great awareness, a pinch of innovation.

 La cucina di Andrea, Agriturismo Il Baciarino, Vetulonia

 La cucina di Andrea, Agriturismo Il Baciarino, Vetulonia

A magical, enchanted, radical chic place on a picturesque hill where, among oak, olive and cork trees, you can live in contact with nature. You can eat outdoors on a wide open view over an incredible panorama, thanks to Andrea, the landlord of the house, you will be filled with simple delicacies based on local raw materials of absolute quality. And when possible Andrea cooks the fish he has caught for the guests.
Il Cantuccio, Buriano
In the center of the village of Buriano, perched like a nativity scene, this tavern has no more than 20 seats.
It is run by a young couple who propose with passion the best local dishes. Francesco Angeloni is the soul of Cantuccio is divided between the kitchen and the dining room. Try the liver terrine on potato bread, the pappardelle pasta with cinta ragout or the gnocchi with green tomato and hazelnut pesto, the pork tenderloin breaded calla cream d'agresto accompanied by baked chickpeas, the stewed gardener. The desserts: chocolate crumble and cheese cake with cherry jam.
La locanda di Torquato, Montorgiali
One of the most authentic and true trattorias in Montorgiali. The menu is recited by voice, no appetizers, only first and second courses, such as tortelli dressed with scorsone truffle and lemon lamb, but in summer there is also a small space for local fish. The vegetables are delicious, thanks to the vegetable garden located a few steps from the inn. We could say zero meters. The desserts are also simple and classic, but not infrequently with a little whimsical touch. For those who are fans of the Produttori Morellino di Scansano cooperative, there is almost the whole range of wines.
La Cantina di Simone, Scansano
"If you eat good cheese and cold cuts in this cellar, you have to come in. It's worth it." That's what it says on the sign: and it really is worth entering and descending the steep staircase to immerse yourself in the atmosphere and scents of the cellar. For lunch, for dinner or just for a snack: the local quality cold cuts and cheeses are accompanied by good wine, and being in the centre of the beautiful village of Scansano, the Morellino is a must. 
Agriturismo Piatina, Monte Antico
From the recovery of a former convent dating back to the early fifteenth century, Agriturismo Piatina now offers hospitality in the Tuscan Maremma, on the farm surrounded by about 160 hectares of cultivated land for the breeding of pigs, cattle and horses. You can arrive even just for a lunch in the garden, enjoying the typical Maremma cuisine, with raw materials produced on the farm and game: vegetable soups, homemade pasta (pici, tagliatelle, gnocchi), roasts and meat sauces alla cacciatora, and a wide choice of homemade desserts, including cantucci.
Da Guido, Magliano 
A medieval village perched on the hills is the setting for the dishes of this Maremman trattoria: liver croutons, cold cuts, fettunta, pappardelle with wild boar and baked pork. All accompanied, if you like, by the local wine par excellence, Morellino di Scansano.  

Antica Trattoria Aurora, Magliano 
Situated at the entrance to the village, rustic rooms and outdoor garden, but above all the cuisine that creatively elaborates local resources stands out: tongue crouton with green sauce, beef tartare with tomato mousse, duck tortelli, wild boar pancakes, baked lamb, and an excellent braised beef with mashed potatoes and red onion. 

Trattoria Da Paolino, Manciano
Two romantic rooms embellished with handcrafted tables and pieces of furniture from the eighteenth century, plus an outdoor area where you can have lunch in July and August, offer accommodation where you can taste inviting specialties made with seasonal products. We remember the wild boar pappardelle, acquacotta, roast suckling pig, wild boar with wild fennel and homemade desserts. Local oil and cheese, wild boar and pork cold cuts. 

Ciaffagnoni de La Filanda, Manciano

La Filanda, Manciano
It is the restaurant run by Barbara Cannarsa and Gian Paolo Costoloni, who have renovated an old barn, transforming it into an elegant restaurant. As an aperitif there are the fried schiaccette to be served with wild boar mortadella with truffle or salami, followed by more substantial dishes such as peposo with polenta, tagliatelle with grandmother's meat sauce and crispy wafers and ciaffagnone cannoli with Maremma beef, artichokes and Jerusalem artichokes.

Valeria Piccini with her brigade, Da Caino, Montemerano

From Cain, Montemerano
Just mention the village that immediately comes to mind Valeria Piccini and the restaurant Da Caino. Near the Saturnia spa, this is a place to cross the threshold and let yourself be pampered, which is part of the prestigious Relais & Châteaux circuit. Star chef Valeria Piccini - who loves to say she wouldn't have gotten where she is if her mother-in-law hadn't taught her how to be a cook - has been able to take tradition to a high level. There is the tasting menu, where you can find squids and shrimps not fried with smoked potatoes and pigeon roasted on olive wood and red tones, and the menu of historical dishes such as tripe and lampredotto, the heart of Manzetta Maremmana barbecued, almond, blood sausage reduction and field salad.

La Bandinella, Roccastrada
In the locality of Montelattaia, the specialities include tortelli maremmani, seasoned both with meat sauce, but also with game, since wild boars and hares abound in these parts. Moving on to the second courses, the trattoria is also known for its fried food: trays of chicken, chops, rabbits, lamb and many vegetables. Tortelli and gran fritto is the perfect combination.

 Hostaria del Ceccottino, Pitigliano
In the historic center of Pitigliano, next to the Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul, a few steps from the Jewish ghetto, this is an elegant and, at the same time, informal trattoria. On the menu, typical dishes of the Maremma tradition and about 120 wine labels. In summer you can eat outdoors. Notable are the pitiglianesi crostini topped with spleen and liver. Among the first courses of pici with white duck ragout or wild boar. Tagliatelle with various seasonings, tortellini. Among the second courses: Ceccottino lamb and fillet of Morellino di Scansano beef (fillet of beef Maremma Presidium slow food), cut, rabbit in porchetta, Florentine. To taste the typical Jewish dessert of Pitigliano: Sfratto, a roll of shortcrust pastry filled with dried fruit, honey, almonds and orange.

Il Tufo Allegro, Pitigliano
A delicious little place dug into the tufa rock that also uses some Slow Food Presidia for its dishes. Try the Millefoglie di baccalà mantecato with bottarga di Orbetello, onion soup and red potato gnocchi with pork sauce.

Il frantoio, Capalbio
A bar-restaurant where art is at home. The intuition was of Philippe Daverio, immediately supported by the owners who transformed this former oil mill into an exhibition space with adjoining bookshops and boutiques where you can have an aperitif or dinner. Try the spaghetti with anchovies and pecorino cheese, the cream of chickpeas, cod and dried tomatoes among the appetizers. Vegan dishes have also appeared on the menu for some time now. Wines from Maremma and beyond, with space also for niche companies.
Il Fontanile dei Caprai, Capalbio
If you get there in the evening, you have to go to a remote piece of countryside: it's part of its charm. A trattoria in the middle of the countryside, with a beautiful pergola and simple, Maremma cuisine, mainly meat dishes, to which you can add pizza cooked in a wood-burning oven. Originally it was a hut for hunters, in the 60s. 

Locanda Rossa, Capalbio

Locanda Rossa, Capalbio
Not far from the medieval village of Capalbio, between the hills and the sea, this inn offers redesigned Maremma cuisine with gourmet touches. Under the "supervision" of Michelin-starred chef Valeria Piccini, dishes are prepared from 0-km ingredients, such as tagliatelle with white wild boar ragout, olives and orange, pappa al pomodoro with roast octopus and guinea fowl pork with cream of green beans, mint and tomatoes.

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