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N. 49 s:s 2019 Alessandro Bencini

Marta Innocenti Ciulli
ph. cover: Alessandro Bencini

July 27, 2020

Louis Vuitton. The time of Nicolas

Appointment with the shots from our shootings. This time dedicated to LV and its endless story

LV, only two consonants but very famous in the world. A written story, rewritten to the limit. But so much so, Louis Vuitton, malletier à Paris - maison fondée en 1854, has come a long way thanks to that genius of Louis who glimpsed the reality of the future in the journey. Those traveling wardrobes in the shape of a parallelepiped that gave up the traditional rounded shapes of the time to facilitate travel with the new means of transport, designed to prevent the traveler from unpacking his luggage, made of light poplar wood covered with a special waterproof canvas.

N. 27 a/w 2013-14 ph. Andrea Varani

Years later the softest and lightest suitcase created by George Vuitton together with Monogram canvas and small leather goods. Since 1959 the production has expanded to include bags and accessories. The arrival of the American Marc Jacobs in 1997 as creative director of the men's and women's clothing collections and all accessories, determined the entrance of the Louis Vuitton maison into the world of ready-to-wear. Jacobs has been ranked several times as one of the most influential designers, from the first minimalist collections to more sensual clothes.

N. 48 a/w 2018-19 ph. Alessandro Bencini

Then the collections are filled with decorative, floral and geometric patterns. The series of Monogram Multicolor bags made in collaboration with the artist Takashi Murakami dates back to 2003. The New York boy managed to demythologize a French symbol like the Toile Monogram! 2013, however, is a turning point, the collaboration between Louis Vuitton and Marc Jacobs comes to an end.

N. 50 s/s 2019 ph. Alessandro Bencini

In his place, Nicolas Ghesquière, a designer known for his work in the Balenciaga brand, is nominated for the women's collections. Passionate, cerebral, revolutionary in style, theorist of a new modernity, perfectionist at the limit of the maniacal. His first collection is a success. "I asked the leather craftsmen who usually deal with bags to think about trousers, skirts and coats.

N. 53 s/s 2020 ph. Federica Fiore

Those who deal with knitwear to imagine fabrics and those who work with fabrics to look at knitwear..." Guesquière has managed to transfer the idea that we have Vuitton bags, cult pieces that it is impossible to resist, to clothing, garments that keep intact the DNA of the maison made of luxury and savoir faire. The last fashion show, a/w 2020-21, wanted to imagine what would happen if they could see us from the past: actors in a choir dressed according to the ages from the 15th to 1950 and us with our 'performing' garments.

N. 54 s/s 2020 ph. Alessandro Bencini

They paraded parachute pants with bullfighter jackets, anoraks for the mountains with tailored pinstripes, ruffled skirts like ruffles, floating babydolls. Perhaps a dissonant collection, but knowing how to see full of possibilities. We saw a brand well rooted in the collective imagination, but young in clothing. It was Ghesquière's task to bring it to maturity.

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