Restaurant at the beach
Magic places where you can enjoy the seaside delicacies of the Tuscan coast
A terrace on the sea. The lulling sound of the waves, the sea salt and the penetrating symphony of a thousand scents. Such dreams can be had in Tuscany, thanks to the region’s 400-km coastline. From Marina di Carrara to the mouth of the Chiarone, just under Capalbio—these areas all offer multiple corners of paradise. Our spots include beach resorts, terraces and grand gourmet restaurants. Starting with the most stellar options, we found two stars that are truly worth mentioning. First, there’s the most exclusive seaside hotel in Tuscany, at Porto Ercole’s Sbarcatello.
Al Pellicano (www.pellicanohotel.com, Tel. 0564-858111) is an excellent restaurant where chef Antonio Giuda (two Michelin stars) continues his commitment to sea-born freshness. On the Marina di Bibbona beach, you’ll find a pinewood stretch bordering Marina di Cecina. Once there, scout out a small pile food stand next to La Pineta Beach Resort. For over fifty years, a single family has been serving up seafood to local beach-goers. A little boy was born into that family and he used to love fishing, hunting and snooping around the kitchen. He has grown up to become chef-fisherman Luciano Zazzeri, who earned a Michelin star thanks to his simple, ingenious cooking.
Still called ‘La Pineta’ (Tel. 0586-600016), his restaurant offers a lovely room with a view of the sea, maritime-style decor and dark wood floors. Our journey continues northward where the coast proves flatter and smoother. The ‘terraces’ we’ve selected are mostly linked to beach resorts, yet one exception makes the rule: along the Brugiano Creek in Massa, you’ll find La Peniche restaurant (Via Lungobrugiano 3, Tel. 0585-240117, www.lapeniche.com), where Emiliano has created a lovely intimate space, known for its great cuisine. Versilia is packed with optimal choices. Examples include Bagno Gilda’s restaurant in Vittoria Apuana (www.gildafortedeimarmi.it, Tel. 0584-752622). In Viareggio, Florindo offers wonderful cooking (Tel. 0584-51361).
Meanwhile, at Bagno Danilo’s spartan tables (Tel. 346-2404409). A stop at Castiglioncello’s Bagno Le Forbici will tempt even more than your taste-buds (www.bagnoleforbici.it, Tel. 0586-751029). Here, along the Aurelia, expect a raised sea-water pool with a stunning view. A little further south you’ll find Marina di Cecina; along the seaside don’t miss dining in the lovely main room or on the terrace of Da Andrea (www.ristoranteandrea.net, Tel. 0586-620143) known for its succulent, fresh fish. Suddenly, you’ll find yourself in San Vincenzo: though it is still mourning the recent loss of its ‘king’ Fulvio Pierangeli, it boasts myriad choice options—mainly because Pierangeli’s son Fulvietto has decided to continue his family’s tradition at the Bucaniere (www.ristorantebucaniere.com, Tel. 335-8001695). It’s a pile restaurant on the beach designed by Massimiliano Fuksas. In San Vincenzo, the restaurant business has truly grown. Also on the seaside, you’ll find Giovanna Bellagotti’s Zanzibar (Tel. 0584-791962) as well as La Perla del Mare (www.laperladelmare.it, Tel. 0565-702113) owned by the husband-and-wife team Deborah and Emanuele Corsi and Serendipity (www.serendipitysanvincenzo.it, Tel. 0565-705401) managed by Angela Califano. At all three places, guests can appreciate great seafood.
On the Golfo di Baratti, you’ll find Canessa, another good restaurant for seaside cuisine (Tel. 0565-29530). In Cartapiano’s Parco della Sterpaia, try the food stand Bagnoskiuma (www.bagnoskiuma.com, Tel. 339-1680102). Otherwise, sample specialties by Pierluigi Marani, the chef at the Terrazza sul Mare in Pratoranieri’s Golfo del Sole Hotel (www.golfodelsole.com, Tel. 0566-72111).
In the heart of Follonica, you’ll find Piccolo Mondo Hotel’s famed restaurant (www.piccolomondohotel.com, 0566-40361). While still in Follonica, this time on Levante Beach, try Massimo Bianconcini’s Oscar Club Restaurant. (Tel. 0566-52588). Continuing southward, you’ll find Marina di Grosseto, you’ll appreciate the Fiumara Beach (Tel. 0564-34040).
Finally, Argentario offers yet another corner of paradise. In Cala Moresca, don’t miss La Cambusa’s lovely terrace, at the Torre di Cala Piccola Hotel (www.torredicalapiccola.com, Tel. 0564- 825111).