The best "Trattorie" in Florence
15 of the best taverns in the centre of Florence
Tuscan and Florentine cuisine is one of the greatest expressions of the city’s restaurants, with hidden corners that are well-known to those that love the local flavours. Here is a selection of some of the best taverns in the historic centre of Florence.
DIQUADDARNO (NORTH OF THE ARNO)
In the Ognissanti area, on Via del Porcellana, 9/r, the Trattoria 13 Gobbi (1) offers such specialties as rigatoni with meat ragù and sliced beed served on a wooden block. Going further along, to 25/r there is the Trattoria da Sostanza (il Troia) (2) where in addition to the classic steak, it’s worth trying the artichoke flan and the chicken breast with butter. Going towards Via de’ Tornabuoni, at no. 16/r in Piazza degli Ottaviani, there is Buca Mario (3) - an aside: in Florence these former basement workshops turned into wine cellars are called “buche” or holes -, in this very Florentine corner, in the past, such personalities as Anthony Hopkins, Billy Joel and Justin Bieber have satisfied their hunger with pappardelle with wild boar sauce and grilled steak. Going back up to the top of Via de’ Tornabuoni, at no. 1/r on Via del Trebbio, is Buca Lapi (4) where the owner Luciano Ghinassi keeps tradition alive with full bookings every evening.
Among the must-tries are charcoal-grilled steak, homemade pasta and desserts. Continuing toward Ponte Santa Trinita, in Via dei Palchetti 6/r, there is Latini (5), whose history is intertwined with that of the city. It offers ribollita (bean and cabbage soup) and pappa al pomodoro (tomato bread soup), pork and wild boar. Again going towards the Arno river, at 26/r Via del Parioncino, there is Coco Lezzone (6) with dishes that include pappa al pomodoro, ribollita, roast pork and an excellent steak. Going back towards Piazza della Signoria, you cross Piazza Santa Trinita and go along Via delle Terme. At 51/r you’ve come to Oliviero (7) where the menu, which changes seasonally, offers fish and meat dishes, many of which are gluten-free and vegetarian. Later, near the Uffizi, on Via dei Girolami 28, you go down the steps again, into Buca dell’Orafo (8) which has good ribollita, Sangiovannese stew, and fried chicken, rabbit and artichokes, but the highlights are the artichoke pie and pork loin with potatoes. You can finish the meal with cooked candied pears.
In the Santa Croce area: in Corso dei Tintori, 47/r is the Ristorante del Fagiolo (9): pappa al pomodoro, ribollita, sautéed penne pasta, tripe, meatballs fried or with sauce, and you can finish with a Chianina steak. Going back towards Sant’Ambrogio, in Via del Verrocchio, 8/r, there is Cibreo (10) a refined melting pot of flavours and aromas, with a single conductor, the chef Fabio Picchi. Worth tasting are the creamed yellow bell peppers, cod alla Cassi, stuffed neck and Florentine “stracotto” beef. In Borgo Pinti, at nos. 12/10/18 r is La Giostra (11), opened twenty years ago by Prince Dimitri of Habsburg-Lorraine and his son Soldano, now a restaurant well frequented by celebrities. A blend of Tuscan and Lorraine tradition: handmade tortelloni with buffalo burrata cheese and white Alba truffles, Kalvil tenderloin with foie gras and apples on toast. In the area of San Lorenzo Market, at 2/r Via Rosina, is the Trattoria da Mario (12) where the dishes are ribollita, peposo (spicy peppered beef stew) or the lampredotto (cow’s stomach), eaten at communal tables.
DILADDARNO (SOUTH OF THE ARNO)
We head straight towards the Oltrarno, in the district of Santo Spirito where Il Santo Bevitore (13), in Via Santo Spirito, 64/r, is distinguished by its creative cuisine, refined but informal. Must-tries are the terrine of chicken liver with Vin Santo reduction and brioche bread, or the beef tartare with crispy vegetables. Continuing toward Ponte Vecchio, in Borgo San Jacopo, 57/r, there is Cammillo (14), one of the most typical trattorias in Florence, frequented by a loyal Florentine clientele. Some of the favourites are the fried seafood, fried beef slices in sauce, handmade tortellini, and the exotic dish of shrimp curry with rice and mango chutney. Further along there is the Trattoria 4 leoni (15) on Via de’ Vellutini, 1/r, on the corner of Piazza della Passera. Worth ordering are the 4 leoni salad, pear bows in cheese sauce with asparagus, the peposo and Maurino’s cheesecake.